Fruit Acid Peeling Benefits

Fruit acid peeling (FS peeling; AHA peeling) is a cosmetic-dermatological procedure that belongs to chemical peelings. The procedure is used mainly for the treatment of small impurities and wrinkles of the skin. The principle of peeling is to remove dead skin cells from the top layer of the skin (epidermis) and to stimulate skin metabolism. In the case of fruit acid peeling, naturally obtained alpha hydroxy acids (AHA or fruit acids for short) are used, which can also be of synthetic origin. The effect of chemical peeling procedures is based on targeted damage to the skin to stimulate the regeneration mechanisms there. In the process, the stratum corneum (uppermost layer of the epidermis/skin) demonstrably becomes thinner, but also more compact. Furthermore, chemical peeling can contribute to the regulation of dysbiosis (imbalance of the skin flora) of the skin microbiome (totality of all microorganisms of the skin).

Indications (areas of application)

  • Acne – acne vulgaris (“common acne”), acne comedonica (lightest form of acne vulgaris; it is characterized mainly by the appearance of comedones/spots), acne excoriée (here there is no disease of the skin, but the skin change is due to neurotic scratching and pressing).
  • Actinic (light) damaged skin – eg fine wrinkles.
  • Actinic keratosis (precancerous condition; light-induced keratinization that can turn into skin cancer).
  • Chloasma (melasma) – hyperpigmentation that occurs on the face.
  • Dyschromia (pigmentation disorders of the skin due to an excess or decrease of melanin in the epidermis / epidermis).
  • Coarse-pored skin
  • Ichthyosis (fish scale disease)
  • Scars – especially superficial acne scars.
  • Hyperkeratosis (disorder with increased keratinization of the skin surface).
  • “Skin rejuvenation” – skin rejuvenation.
  • Seborrheic keratosis (age warts).
  • Xeroderma (dry skin)

Contraindications

  • Active herpes simplex infection
  • Allergies – to exfoliating ingredients.
  • Bacterial or viral infections of the skin
  • Treatment with retinoids both externally and systemically – Do not peel until 12 months after systemic therapy, in the case of external treatment, discontinue the drug one week before.
  • Taking oral contraceptives (pill) or hormone therapy – increased risk of pigmentation disorders.
  • Fresh scars and wounds
  • Tendency to keloids (hypertrophic scarring).
  • Neoplasms (neoplasms) and tumors (skin cancer) of the skin.
  • Pathological inflammatory skin conditions – e.g. inflamed acne pustules.
  • Collagenoses (connective tissue diseases).
  • Photosensitivity (photosensitivity of the skin).
  • Radiatio/radiation therapy – in the area of the skin to be treated within the last six months.
  • Regular intake of steroids
  • Pregnancy
  • Very dark skin type
  • Teleangiectasia (dilation of small superficial skin vessels).
  • Previously performed(s)
    • Dermabrasion (mechanical peeling; abrasion of the skin).
    • Laser treatment of the skin (laser skin resurfacing; physical peeling).
    • Deep peeling
  • Wound healing disorders

Before treatment

Before a peeling treatment, an informative patient interview and medical history is necessary to rule out any allergies or diseases (e.g. herpes simplex) that could jeopardize the treatment. The peeling is started by a pre-treatment of about two weeks. This prepeeling with acidic creams, if necessary in combination or after pretreatment with hydroquinone cream, serves to reduce the acid and fat content of the skin and allows the identification of patients who may be sensitive to the peeling. Strong sun exposure should be avoided for at least two weeks prior to the peel appointment. No makeup or other cosmetics should be applied prior to the procedure and the skin should be thoroughly cleansed. Additionally, degreasing cleansing of the skin may be necessary. Sensitive areas of the skin that are not part of the treatment are covered with petroleum jelly.

The process

When applying fruit acid using cotton swabs or brushes, wrinkled areas of skin are manually stretched to ensure even application. Start with low concentrations and then gradually increase. Fruit acids or ɑ-hydroxy acids (AHAs) are used analogously for fruit acid peeling. These substances act effectively as keratolytics (substances that dissolve keratinization) and are used in their natural form as lactic acid (from old cheese, sour milk, sauerkraut), glycolic acid (from unripe grapes or sugar cane juice), malic acid, tartaric acid (from grapes or old wine) or citric acid (from berries or lemons). They loosen the cohesion of the horny layer and improve the appearance of the skin. The following effects can also be observed:

  • Induction of cell proliferation (cell proliferation).
  • Thickening of the epidermis (top layer of skin).
  • Increase in glucosaminoglycans (protein that is an important component of connective tissue) in the dermis and epidermis.
  • Increase in collagen fibers

The duration of exposure time of the peeling depends, among other things, on the skin sensation (tingling, burning ECC) of the patient. Furthermore, the response of the therapy (erythema / surface skin redness, etc.) must be estimated by constant observation, which means that the therapist must remain uninterrupted with the patient. The acid acts for about 1-2 minutes. The duration and concentration of the acid can be increased in the course if it is well tolerated. To prevent damage, the acid must be finally neutralized by sodium bicarbonate or water. Note: In the case of peels in the facial area, eye areas and lips should be protected from accidental contact with the peel solution by greasy externals (e.g. ointments, creams).The procedure is performed by a doctor or beautician depending on the acid concentration and has a low penetration depth. Initially, fruit acid peeling should be performed weekly or bi-weekly; as the procedure progresses, 1- or 2-month intervals are recommended. A total of 4 to 12 sessions are recommended.

After the treatment

After treatment, mild skin redness (erythema) and tingling may occur. To remove acid residue, the skin is cleaned with water following the peel. The peeling is completed by cooling the skin and applying a skin care cream. Furthermore, a sunscreen should be applied and the patient should avoid direct sunlight for at least 24 hours after the treatment.

Possible complications

  • Allergic reactions to ingredients of the peel.
  • Burning and sensation of heat
  • Erythema (redness)
  • Skin atrophy (skin shrinkage)
  • Infections – both bacterial, viral and mycotic (fungal infection).
  • Milia (skin gravel)
  • Scarring
  • Weeping wounds
  • Pruritus (itching)
  • Reactivation of a herpes infection
  • Pain
  • Scabbing
  • Scaling
  • Undercorrection
  • Temporary hyperpigmentation as well as hypopigmentation (darkening and lightening of the skin).
  • Wound healing disorders