Ancient grains such as emmer, einkorn and spelt are becoming increasingly popular in organic cooking and farming. “The desire for unadulterated food and biodiversity have increased demand for ancient grains in recent years. Emmer, in particular, which is closely related to durum wheat, plays a significant role in this shift in awareness,” says agricultural engineer Peter Jantsch, who has been involved in scientific research on einkorn and emmer since 1992.
Emmer: history
As early as 10,000 years ago, emmer was cultivated in the Middle East and served as a staple food for people. “Over time, growing prosperity changed dietary habits from porridge and flatbread to finer baked goods, which were easier to produce with bread wheat. Because of its baking properties, but also because of low crop yields, cultivation continued to decline until emmer finally disappeared from the fields altogether in the early 20th century,” Jantsch said.
Renaissance of a grain
Only since the 1990s has the ancient grain been experiencing a renaissance and is being cultivated again on a small scale, especially in southern Germany and Switzerland, he said. Emmer, which is available as a summer and winter grain, is characterized by a nutty to hearty flavor and is suitable for making beer, bread, whole-grain pastries and pasta.
The ancient grain also has a lot to offer from a nutritional perspective, he said. “Emmer is a grain very rich in minerals. Compared to conventional wheat, emmer has a somewhat higher iron and magnesium value and a significantly higher zinc content,” the agricultural engineer knows.
The grain has potential not only in terms of healthy nutrition, says the expert. In order to preserve biodiversity and find alternative crops that are ready for climate change, he says, black emmer – a variety with a black tegument – in particular will gain in importance in the future. This is because the dark blue plant pigments (anthocyanins) protect the grain particularly well against UV rays. So far, only organic food stores and health food stores occasionally offer emmer and einkorn.
