Skin Aging: Drug Therapy

Nutricosmetics

Nutricosmetics is a neologism from the English word nutrition and cosmetics. This enables the targeted nutritional supplementation with vital substances (micronutrients) as a cosmetic measure for skin, hair and nails. Nutrikosmetik – natural beauty from within – is a micronutrient therapy (vital substances) of the skin, hair and nails.

The active ingredients

• Vitamins
  • Vitamin A derivatives have long been used in cosmetics to combat premature skin aging. They have the same effect as progesterone – they inhibit matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and thus the collagen degradation of the skin.
  • Vitamin C stimulates the formation of collagen and connective tissue and is essential for skin regeneration. It is also able to protect the skin from UV rays through its antioxidant effect.
  • Vitamin E is of great importance for the inhibition of lipid peroxidation (protection of cell membranes) and thus for the health of all cells. During the inhibition of the radical chain reaction, vitamin E itself is oxidized and then reduced by vitamin C, that is, regenerated. In several studies, vitamin E was shown to be a protective factor for UV radiation.
• Trace elements
  • Copper – cofactor for enzymatic reactions needed in crosslinking (cross-linking) of collagen. Copper promotes the proliferation of keratinocytes (cells of the human epidermis that produce the horny substance keratin) and fibroblasts (cells that are a major component of connective tissue), leading to skin rejuvenation.
  • Selenium – important for DNA synthesis and its repair, as well as protection against oxidative damage and in cell apoptosis (programmed cell death).
  • Zinc – cofactor for cellular defense; zinc protects against lipid peroxidation, oxidative stress and UV-induced cytotoxicity (ability of some chemical substances to damage cells and tissues)Note: The main zinc stores are located in the epidermis, where the trace element plays a role in epidermal proliferation as well as in the differentiation of keratinocytes. Furthermore, zinc is important for the survival of keratinocytes and for wound healing.
• Secondary plant substances
  • Beta-carotene – a carotenoid – has two special features that are important for the prevention of skin aging: First, the singlet oxygen quenching property (interception of aggressive singlet oxygen) and second, the inhibition of lipid peroxidation, which is important for the maintenance of cell membranes. Furthermore, beta-carotene – as well as other carotenoids without provitamin A function – provides photoprotection to the skin.
  • Epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) – protects against lipid oxidation and limits DNA damage induced by UV rays.
  • Curcumin (in turmeric) – inhibition of inflammatory cytokines (pro-inflammatory proteins) and suppression of the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS), thus scavenging free radicals and inhibition of lipid peroxidation.
  • Lycopene – A lycopene-rich vital complex from tomatoes in capsule form (5 mg lycopene, plus other phytonutrients such as phytoene, phytofluene, phytosterols, and tocopherols) was able to significantly inhibit UV-A-/UV-B- and UV-A1-induced upregulation of mRNA of heme oxygenase 1, intercellular adhesion molecule 1, and matrix metallopeptidase 1. This was also true for lutein.
• Fatty acids
  • Gamma-linolenic acid – an omega-6 fatty acid – is formed in the healthy human organism from the essential omega-6 fatty acid linoleic acid and regulates sebaceous gland secretion.

Supplements (dietary supplements; vital substances)

Suitable dietary supplements should contain the following vital substances:

• Vitamins (A, C, D3, E, B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, B12, folic acid, biotin).
• Trace elements (iron, copper, manganese, molybdenum, selenium, zinc).
• Fatty acids (omega-3 fatty acids: eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA); omega-6 fatty acids: gamma-linolenic acid (GLA)).
• Secondary plant compounds (eg, beta-carotene; green tea, grape seed / olive polyphenols; lycopene).
• Other vital substances (silica; coenzyme Q10).

Hormone therapy – hormone cosmetics

What is the effect of hormone therapy on the skin? It is considered certain that hormone therapies or complementary hormone treatments have a beneficial effect on:

• Quality of the epidermis (epidermis)
• Collagen and elastin content and the moisture content of the skin.
• Vaginal tissue and the urethra

The following hormones are used in hormone therapy of the skin:

• Estrogens – improve collagen synthesis and blood circulation.
• Progesterone – inhibition of collagenases (inhibition of collagen degradation).
• Testosterone – leads to crossing over (cross-shaped collagen strands); this is responsible for the connective and adipose tissue gets its support (anti-cellulite factor) – furthermore to the inhibition of collagenases.

Below is detailed the influence of hormones on the skin.

Influence of hormones on the epidermis

Estrogens have an anabolic effect on the epidermis, that is, stimulating the activity of the stratum germinativum. The effect of estrogens occurs via the induction of IGF-1 in the skin. IGF-1 receptors can be detected in the stratum basale (basal layer) and stratum spinosum (prickle cell layer). Furthermore, estrogens stimulate the release of histamine from mast cells. Furthermore, estrogens – estradiol – have an influence on the size and melanin content of melanocytes, i.e. they have a stimulating effect: It is known that estrogens – for example present in a contraceptive (birth control pill) or produced in increased amounts during pregnancy – can lead to hyperpigmentation chloasma (melasma) on the face.Gestagens can also contribute to this to a small extent. Estrogens have antioxidant protection for the skin by scavenging radicals.Testosterone has a stimulating effect on keratinocytes via a keratinocyte-growth-factor (synonym: fibroblast growth factor-7) and leads to an increase in keratin content.Vitamin D3 and thyroxine together have an effect on the proliferation of keratinocytes (horn-forming cells).

Influence of hormones on the dermis

Matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) are inhibited by progesterone and testosterone. Estrogens – estradiol – stimulate collagen synthesis and also have a positive effect on elastin.What matters is not collagen synthesis (new collagen formation), but the balance between formation and degradation. Estrogens, together with vitamin D, vitamin A and thyroid hormones, stimulate the formation of new skin from stem cells and promote skin circulation.Attention!Increased estradiol dose leads to increased activity of collagenases!Estrogens further stimulate the synthesis of hyaluronic acid, which is an important component of glycosaminoglycans (GAG). Glycosaminoglycans are divided into the following groups:

• Hyaluronic acid
• Chondroitin sulfate
• Heparan sulfate
• Keratan sulfate

Glycosaminoglycans serve to stabilize the skin by storing water. Thus, they are a reflection of the freshness of the skin.

Influence of hormones on the sebaceous glands

Aging of sebaceous glandsSebaceous gland function depends on sex hormones – androgens and estrogens. Their functionality decreases to half in old age compared to young people.Cause of aging are intrinsic factors as well as decreasing secretion of sex hormones (estrogens, testosterone) as well as growth hormones (STH, IGF-1). Conclusion: The influence of hormones on the skin is significant.Before starting a hormone cosmetic, the endocrinological status should be determined – see menopause, andropause and somatopause.A hormone cosmetic should always consist of an estrogen-containing cream combined with progesterone. Furthermore, in addition to local therapy, oral therapy with micronutrients (vital substances) – see micronutrient therapy (vital substances) – should always be given.Skin studies showed that regular hormone therapy – hormone cosmetics – reduces skin drying by 24% and wrinkling by up to 30%.Hormone cosmetics thus undoubtedly slows skin aging.